The North Coast 500: The Perfect Route (1400 miles!)
The North Coast 500 is the newest big road trip on the block (although now pretty popular!). The attempt to encourage more people to visit the highlands of Scotland was named the North Coast 500 and although it is a little bit over 500 miles if you drive direct, we drove 1400 miles!
Due to the amazing detours we made on some more coastal roads, some small roads up mountains, and also visiting the isle of Skye! The road trip is definitely one to add to the bucket list!
We drove anti-clockwise starting from Edinburgh due to already having Edinburgh zoo tickets. But there are multiple reasons why you could drive anti-clockwise or clockwise. When reading our Scotland guidebook that driving anti-clockwise you can often get the best views, but this is completely up to you!
Ed and I drove the North Coast 500 in our first converted camper van. This was the first big trip in our camper and was truly amazing and the reason why we branched into vanlife in the first place.
The North Coast 500 officially starts at Inverness right round to Applecross pass and then back along to Inverness. However, we wanted to do more! We also visited the Isle of Skye too
Wanting to take the slow road as we did? Our favourite book was the Take the Slow Road: Scotland, by Martin Dorey. With different driving routes and things to see. It suggests routes to take and is written quite different from normal guidebooks. It inspires you to start planning your trip immediately!
Edinburgh to Inverness
We didn’t expect this drive to be anything interesting. Rather long, and although through the Cairngorms national park, we didn’t expect anything spectacular.
But boy are we wrong! There are interesting winding roads, cock bridge village – which a picture next to the sign must be taken, and also balmoral caste!
Balmoral Castle
You can visit Balmoral Caste, however only at certain times of the year due to the royal family taking residence there.
You can visit between April and August usually, but check their website first
Linn of Dee
The Linn of Dee is a river that runs through the village of Braemar. You can park in Linn of Dee car park which is about a 20-minute drive from Braemar.
From here you can take multiple walks through the forest but also see the gorge and waterfall which is under the bridge here.
Inverness to the Black Isle
The black isle isn’t officially included in the North Coast 500 but the scenery is beautiful.
Wonderful beaches and views across the peninsula to the other side in the distance that you can see on a nice day. Take a detour off the A9 onto the A832.
Black Isle to Tain
Glenmorangie Distillery
In Tain, is the Glenmorangie Distillery. For only £18 each you can tour their distillery which is interesting but also really pretty inside and tasters
At the end of the tour, you get to view thousands of barrels they have maturing as well as a ‘wee dram’ of their original whiskey. If you like, you can also have a taste of another one of your choice. The only thing to mention is that Scotland’s drink driving laws are pretty strict, but you can take a ‘wee dram’ away with you and drink it at your leisure, which I think is a really personal touch.
Tain to Dornoch
Dornoch is a little detour off the A9. It is a cute village where we spent an afternoon eating ice cream and patrolling the beach
The beach is wide and very long! We parked in the free car park in Dornoch and walked to the beach which took about half an hour. It was a beautiful walk and a nice break from driving.
Dornoch to John O’Groats
Now the first thing I’m going to say is that John O’Groats is not the most northern point in the UK mainland, that is, in fact, Dunnet's point
However, John O’Groats is the start or end to the most northwestern point to lands end at the most southeastern point. Many people run or cycle this for charity over a fair few days.
We saw a man running away from John O’Groats on one day and about 5 days later saw him again 150 miles south! Takes a lot of courage to do!
John O’Groats as a village is small, on the beach there are a few gift shops and cafes! So, a little stop here and a hot chocolate and then moving on
John O’Groats to Dunnet Head
Dunnet head is only another half an hour drive from John O’Groats and is in fact, the most northern point of the British Mainland. On a clear day, the views are just spectacular.
When we pulled up it was full of mist and we couldn’t see anything but within a few minutes, it was completely clear. So if the weather is a bit rubbish I would suggest waiting around for a little while to see if it clears.
From the A836, turn off north towards Dunnet Head by taking the B855.
Dunnet Head to Thurso
How ever you’re doing the North Coast 500, camping, campervan, motorhome or whatever, Thurso is the last (sort of) big place before driving across the top of Scotland.
Therefore, would suggest buying supplies you may need in the shops there such as food, midge spray and more!
Thurso to Light House at Strathy Point
The lighthouse at Strathy Point is a detour off the A836 north after passing through the village of Strathy. Then drive up the road for 20 minutes where they have a fair few highland cattle cows that are often in the middle of the road which is cool!
You can then park just as you reach the end of the road where there is a farm.
You have to walk the rest of the way for 15 minutes but it is a flat path. There were 3 other cars that pulled up a similar time to us, but didn’t think they could get through as the farmer was wrapping bales in the usual parking area
We parked just on the side and went through the gate to the right.
The lighthouse itself belongs to someone and I believe they live there but the surrounding scenery is beautiful. Lots of rocks that have been shaped by the sea and on a clear day you can see for miles. There are also a lot of birds around this area.
Strathy Point to Durness
Just before you get to Durness on the A838 you will pass a place called Smoo. An interesting name I know. But this is a stop on anyone’s trip due to the Smoo caves.
They date back to Viking times where there is evidence of shipbuilding in the caves and habitation. You can take tours in the caves but only in good weather. Despite the tours not taking place when we went, you can still go down to the caves and go in a bit which was still good either way.
Durness to Ullapool
If you’re wanting to take the slow roads around Scotland, I have already mentioned a few detours from the normal North Coast 500 but there are so many more.
Driving on the A894 you will pass over the Kylesku Bridge which is a perfect stop to take some amazing photos. Just after the bridge, if you take the B869, you can take the coastal route out to a peninsula and round past Loch Assynt
It is a fair detour of about 25 miles, but if you’re a confident driver, and keen for some more amazing views, then definitely take this route. It is single-tracked but there are multiple passing places.
The problem is when you meet lorries on the way so be prepared to reverse to the closest passing place
Before Lochinver, the road becomes the A837 and if you go back east you will re-join the North Coast 500 route towards Ullapool.
Stac Polliadh
Another stop on the way is walking up Stac Pollaidh. With an elevation of 600m, this hike is very interesting. Going to be honest, I didn’t think it would be as steep because I didn’t research enough and I got confused with another walk.
Due to overlooking Loch Lurgainn, and the extent of midges in the summer in Scotland, we were not prepared for this either. Midges are awful in the summer in Scotland so be prepared with sprays and sometimes even headgear.
On the way up we saw a man coming down with a head hat and midge net on. At the time we thought this was excessive but that was us being naïve
Although the walk was fairly steep at most points, and if you’re not that fit, and have to keep stopping sometimes, it was unbearable due to the midges then going in for their attack. I ended up putting on my coat to prevent them at least landing on my arms and my head but was still miserable.
The walk and views, however, were excellent! The last part of the hike required rambling and climbing to the top where you can stand in between 2 rocks and see the amazing views from even higher
I tried to endure the midges further down whereas Ed carried on right to the top. He said it was hard but definitely manageable and well worth the views.
One of the highlights of the whole trip was we saw 2 stags just eating grass on the way up. They just stood there for ages while I was able to take as many photos of humanly possible before we carried on walking. To see 2 close up without them running away is pretty amazing.
Ullapool to Kinlochewe
Driving the coastal route from Ullapool on the A835, if you make a right turn onto the A832 towards Kinlochewe, you will come to the Corrieshalloch viewpoint which is a large gorge which you can walk across a bridge to see
The car park isn’t really a car park. Just as it seems elsewhere, places are not ready for the number of tourists they’re now receiving. There are places to park here however they have double yellow lines (which in Britain means no parking at any time). However, there is nowhere else to park and seemed pretty accepted to park here
There are 2 gates, one goes left and one goes right.
The path to the right I believe is better, as it goes to the bridge and you can see a lot more than the path to the left. You can walk across the bridge to another viewpoint, however it was closed for maintenance when we were there
Both paths do join up so all you have to do is walk along to the other viewpoint, but we couldn’t really see much even standing up on the fence.
Kinlochewe to Tornapress
If you’ve already done any research about the North Coast 500, you’ll know it will include Bealach Na Ba road, also known as the Applecross Pass
This is a famous road of infamous views that take huge twists and turns and included in the top roads to drive in the world. But it isn’t for the faint-hearted!
Ed had wanted to drive this road for years being an absolute petrol head, and it wasn’t too easy! But the views were amazing!
At the top, they have the Bealach Na Ba viewpoint which is just something else and well worth the drive.
We drove anti-clockwise to Applecross and then up the pass, some people prefer to drive from Tornapress and drive the opposite direction. To be honest, either way, it is pretty amazing.
Applecross to the Isle of Skye
At this point, we drove to the Isle of Skye and planned to spend 3 days there. Unfortunately, this was cut short due to the most horrendous weather we’ve ever experienced, but suppose should have known with a yellow weather warning…
Applecross/isle of Skye to Fort William
The North Coast 500 is only meant to be the highlands of Scotland, therefore, Inverness to Inverness, but why stop there? Scotland has some amazing scenery especially along the west coast and we just wanted to see more!
Once you visit I’m sure you’ll want to see more too!
Fort William to Glenfinnan Viaduct and Loch Shiel
I don’t know many people that haven’t seen or don’t like Harry Potter. Unfortunately, I have one friend that doesn’t like it, and I definitely do not understand why but each to their own
But why not visit the backdrop of the Hogwarts Express bridge from Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets? And also, the Black Lake from Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire?
The train crosses the viaduct at 1045 and 1500. The parking though is horrendous, so try and arrive early for a good spot. When we revisited a year later, we were there 1.5 hours early, we managed to get a space but only just, and it was already busy at the view point to the left
Since carrying out the North Coast 500, or at least an extensive version we just want to see more. In the future we will return to more of the islands and probably the Isle of Skye and the highlands again (already visited twice)
Safe to say their advertising of the North Coast 500 and trying to get more tourists to Scotland has worked! It is the most upcoming road trip to undertake and now we see why!
We are lucky enough to have Scotland on our doorstep and the border only being an hour and a half away so hopefully should be easy to return in the future!
